Before coming to Salvador I was really looking forward for it, because everybody was talking about how beautiful it is, which is true but unfortunately only for the small part of the old town center and the beach area. The rest of the city is kind of a no-go-area for tourists which makes restaurant and hostel prices rise in the touristy areas. Still we spent a nice sunny day walking around the colourful center, eating local food (too spicy for me, too many prawns for Flo) and listening to bands playing on the street.
From Salvador we took the bus to Lencois, to visit the famous Chapada Diamantina. As the park is also very touristy and none of the trails is marked, we hd read that you needed a guide to go hiking there. As you all know I'm oposed to guides and tours because it's always annoying: too many people, too little time, not enough time to take pictures in the places I want to, being urged to takes pictures in places I don't think are special....
So in the first day we tried to find our way to some waterfalls in the nearby area of Lencois of our own, which didn't work. So in the end we did go with a guide, but luckily it was not too expensive as we could negociate and didn't go with one of the overpriced agency in the town center.
That evening Flo downloaded a hiking app and I really have to advertise it here: It's called ApeMap and it's awesome. The next day we took a taxi to Pai Inacio, a famous mountain that you can climb and then walked all the way back to Lencois (18km), only using the app as a map. If we had taken a tour it would have cost us 90R/person. Now it cost us 30R for the taxi and we could walk at our own pace and take pictures and do breaks whenever we wanted. In the end 18km did become a little bit too long, so when two guys on a trucks showed up and offered us a lift, we glatly took it. And it was also really good fun to ride on the loading platform of the truck, having to watch out for branches.
After this nice experience we decided to stay one more day and hike 7 kms to a waterfall nearby. The hike was quite challenging as you had to climb over rocks and cross the river and the water was freezing cold (not as cold as in Karijini though), but it was really good fun and we were happy we had decided to stay another day.